Alta Climbing combines the excitement of extreme outdoor adventure with the mental challenge of mastering challenging routes.
While some argue that this sport courtes danger, others claim it teaches a sense of risk management and the value of an examined life.
Whether you are rock climbing in your backyard or in the mountains, there are some basic rules that every climber should follow. Always make sure that someone knows where you are going, track your location with a GPS or compass, and have a plan in case something changes (either an injury or weather). It is also good to take a small first aid kit with you on all trips. These kits are available in many different sizes and hardly weigh anything, but they are full of essential items that can save your life in the event of an accident.
The most important thing a climber can do to prevent an accident is to practice safe belay techniques with an experienced belayer before going outside. This will give them the confidence to use these techniques with a real person. It also gives the belayer a chance to get familiar with their job and how they should respond to a fall. It is important for the belayer to focus on the climber at all times and not be distracted by conversation, music, or anything else.
In addition to practicing belay techniques, a climber should always wear a helmet. This may seem obvious, but it is often ignored. It is the most important piece of equipment in a climber’s gear and can help protect them from serious injuries.
Climbers should also make sure to use the proper footwear for climbing. Flip flops and sandals are not appropriate for climbing and can cause a lot of damage. Closed-toed shoes give more grip and are much safer than bare feet. Climbing gloves are also important for safety because they can keep your hands from slipping and causing falls.
Sport climbing can seem very safe when compared to other types of climbing, especially since most routes have protection consisting of bolts drilled into the rock that are very strong and usually placed with reasonable spacing to avoid the possibility of long falls. However, even these safety precautions can be dangerous for climbers who aren’t careful. For example, if a climber is really tired from exerting themselves, they can lose their grip and fall.
Equipment
The equipment a climber needs for a given type of climbing depends on the difficulty and safety considerations. Rock climbing requires shoes, a harness, and ropes. The more difficult types of climbing require additional gear such as a belay device, quickdraws to clip into bolted anchors, and a rack (a selection of fixed and active protection). Roped climbing also requires a partner and equipment to support the climber in case of a fall.
The UIAA is the organization that sets standards for climbing equipment. When purchasing climbing gear, look for the UIAA logo or ask the opinion of an experienced climber before buying. Avoid equipment with sharp edges or abrasion points. A padded harness is preferred for comfort. The leg loops should fit snugly over the thighs but not hinder movement. The waist belt should be adjustable so it fits over a shirt and jacket, but not so loose that it can slip off of the body.
Some climbing equipment is rated by a number of kilovonewtons (kN) that indicates how much weight the gear can hold. This number should be indicated on the packaging of all climbing gear. A kN rating is not a guarantee of safety, but it is the minimum standard for any piece of climbing equipment.
Climbing terminology:
Carabiner–Elongated metal shape, usually shaped like a triangle or oval, with an opening gate at one end used to clip and unclip equipment from the climbing rope. Generally made of aluminium, they come in two varieties: snapgate and screwgate. Quickdraw–A short runner with multiple loops for use as an adjustable sling or to attach a piece of protection to a bolted anchor using a prusik knot. A quickdraw is sold in a set with two matching carabiners.
Techniques
There are a wide variety of different ways to climb, but the basic categories are what kind of rock you’re climbing on and how you get between the holds. There’s a lot going on in the process, and it can be difficult to pin down exactly what makes a good climber, but there are some broad strokes that all climbers should have a working knowledge of:
First of all, technique is important. There are a lot of things you can do to improve your climbing, but there are also some techniques that just don’t work. For example, straight arms are more efficient than remaining in a locked-off position, but you have to be able to generate your own power, and that takes some practice.
Some examples of climbing techniques include smearing, palming, and cross throughs. Smearing is when you push against the rock with your hand, ideally on the sides of your fingers and in the middle of the palm. This can help if you have no other handholds available and is helpful on slab climbs. Palming is a way of pressing with the tips of your fingers, and it’s useful for keeping the balance while you reposition your feet or grab another hold. Cross throughs are when you reach across yourself to grab a hold with your opposite hand.
The other thing you need to be able to do is generate momentum. There are a lot of different ways to do this, and the best method will vary from route to route. For example, some climbers can “flag” or drop knee to generate more power, while others may be able to use an inside-flag or back-flag. But generating and harnessing momentum should always be done while keeping the hips open (except for the case of the inside-flag) and the feet high.
Other types of climbing include trad, or traditional, climbing where the leader, or ‘lead’, places their own temporary protection as they go, and their partner, or’second’, removes it once the route is completed. There’s also free solo climbing, which is the most dangerous form of the sport and requires a lot more skill and knowledge than other forms.
Training
Whether it is a simple boulder problem at the gym, or a difficult route at your local crag, consistent improvement in climbing requires a combination of factors. This includes not only increasing your overall strength and endurance, but also refining the specific movement patterns you use to execute these movements.
This is why a well designed, individualized training plan is so important for climbers. Each program should be progressively developed over time, taking into account your personal goals, weaknesses and training history. It is also important to remember that the same workout will produce different results for each individual person. For this reason, it is vital to keep a journal and become an expert in your own body.
The foundational elements of a good climbing training plan should include conditioning, core exercises and power/endurance training. These should be performed at a level that allows your body to recover between training sessions. This will help reduce overuse injuries common in climbing. It is also important to develop climbing-specific movements that are executed in a way that mimics the demands of your specific discipline. For example, for a sport climber this will often involve the use of dynamic movements to increase power and speed. For a mountaineer this will often require the use of dynamic movements to improve balance, coordination and footwork.
For advanced climbers, developing climbing-specific power is essential to improving performance and maximising the potential of their bodies. This will often involve training at a higher volume with relatively high loads, and can be achieved through using complex multi-joint movements that are performed at an intensity that is sufficient to develop appropriate muscle recruitment, but not so intense as to cause excessive fatigue or overtraining.
Many climbers struggle with converting their single-pitch fitness into improved performance on longer routes or alpine climbs. For this, long-duration climbing or ARCing (Acclimatization-Reduced Circuits) can be extremely beneficial. Performing repeated intervals of long-duration climbing allows you to develop your endurance, drill robust skills and movement patterns over climbing times that last anywhere from several minutes to a half hour or more.
